Portraits of winemakers

THOMAS MERLE, DOMAINE BOUISSE-MATTERI: YOUNG WINEMAKER CONQUERING FORGOTTEN GRAPE VARIETIES

Thomas Merle: Reviving Forgotten Grape Varieties at Domaine Bouisse-Matteri

A New Generation in Winemaking

Thomas Merle, hailing from a family of winemakers, is in his thirties and full of ideas. In 2007, after studying viticulture and oenology and spending a few months in Australia, he joined his parents, Bruno and Mariette, at Domaine Bouisse-Matteri, located in the heart of Provence in Hyères.

Upon his arrival at Domaine Bouisse-Matteri, one particular vineyard plot intrigued Thomas. “We had several vines that had been identified as Grenache. However, we knew very well that they were not Grenache, as physically, they were nothing like it,” Thomas recalls. After several years of research, Thomas and his family discovered that the vines were actually a forgotten grape variety called Mourvaison. “We quickly changed the label on the tank to read Mourvaison!”

Discovering Rosé du Var

This discovery led the young winemaker to delve further and explore the origins of other grape varieties. “About ten years ago, we rented some rather scraggly vines that produced large pink berries. Initially, we called it Aramont Gris. But we eventually realized that it was actually another forgotten grape variety called Rosé du Var. This was in 2013,” Thomas remembers. “When I learned that the center for rosé was looking for vines of Rosé du Var and Mourvaison, I looked at photos of these varieties and recognized ours. The center brought in a specialist who confirmed it. He even found another, slightly less rare variety, Aubun,” adds Thomas.

Reviving Forgotten Varieties in the AOC Côtes de Provence

Mourvaison, identifiable by its small greenish berries that persist even when ripe, is distinguished by its pronounced aromas of red fruits and undergrowth. In 2013, Thomas vinified the first 100% Mourvaison red wine. “Before we discovered the true identity of the grape, my father was blending Mourvaison with Grenache to make a rosé. This resulted in a surprisingly robust and age-worthy wine. But when I began vinifying it as a red, I found it so excellent that I decided we would never make it as a rosé again.”

Since then, Thomas has reconsidered his position. As he prepares to replant new Mourvaison vines, he plans to allocate part of them to rosé production. “Given that over 80% of the production in the Provençal vineyard is rosé, I can’t overlook rosé if I want to see Mourvaison return as an official grape variety of the Côtes de Provence appellation,” says the winemaker. The return of Mourvaison and Rosé du Var to the AOC Côtes de Provence is a cause particularly dear to Thomas, who believes it is important to diversify the wines of a region “standardized” by the success of rosés made from Syrah or Grenache (key grape varieties of the region).

Thomas doesn’t neglect other grape varieties. In addition to the 1,500 bottles of Mourvaison and 3,000 bottles of Rosé du Var produced each year, Domaine Bouisse-Matteri produces 17 other wines, including rosés blended from Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah. “We have so many different grape varieties and terroirs that it would be a shame not to make use of them all,” Thomas considers. Domaine Bouisse-Matteri therefore also produces red wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, and Syrah, as well as white wine from a blend of Vermentino and Ugni Blanc.