Portraits of winemakers

CHAMPAGNE J.DE TELMONT, BERTRAND LHOPITAL: ‘CHAMPAGNE IS A SENSORY AND TASTE EXPERIENCE’.

319 Views Posted on: 2024-06-04
 

Champagne J. De Telmont: From Generation to Generation

"When entering the professional world, some choices are imposed upon us," observes Bertrand Lhopital. For this winemaker, the "choice" was to return to the family estate in 1998 after studying agricultural engineering. He joined his sister Pascale and his father Serge, who is now retired but still accompanies him daily in the vineyards. Together, Pascale and Bertrand represent the 4th generation of winemakers in their family.

Deeply rooted in a familial spirit, Champagne J. De Telmont defies the concept of "unique champagne": "As my grandfather used to say, universal champagne does not exist. There is a champagne for every event, a champagne for every type of person, and so on. That’s why we are committed to meeting the taste preferences of all our customers," the winemaker explains. Designed with this philosophy, the Champagne J. De Telmont range presents a broad spectrum of champagnes, from classic brut cuvées to more assertive vintage champagnes, including rosés and 100% Chardonnay.

"House Style"

Some of Champagne J. De Telmont’s wines result from long aging in the cellar. For instance, the L.D Extra Brut 2005 cuvée was aged for six years before bottling. Beyond this aging effect, which is one of the house’s characteristics, Bertrand aims to impart a "house style" to his champagnes. "We strive to produce three different champagnes from the same house, like a trio of siblings each with their own character while still showing a family resemblance. This house style is something we maintain year after year. Our long-time customers confirm this," notes Bertrand.

Welcoming at the Estate: The DNA of Champagne J. De Telmont

Bertrand places great importance on his customers' experiences because he gives special attention to the welcome at the estate itself. "My grandfather established this practice from the beginning. I am entirely in agreement with this concept: I find it very important to prioritize interaction with the consumer. This is truly the DNA of our house. Besides, the word 'hôpital' (hospital) comes from 'hôte' (host). With a family name like ours, it's clear we were destined for wine tourism!" Bertrand highlights with amusement.

Beyond cellar tours and tastings, Bertrand aims to offer a "full experience" to his visitors. "We have created a whole range of varied workshops, from the 'harvest' workshop with an introduction to picking, to the 'oenology' workshop where clients can create their own cuvée, which they will collect two years later. The goal of these workshops is to immerse them in the world of champagne…our world, in essence!"

Towards Biodynamic Cultivation

While Bertrand acknowledges having "a multitude of projects" for the future, one particularly dear to him is the transition of one-third of his 30 hectares of vineyards to biodynamic cultivation. "It is high time for Champagne to focus on environmental preservation and to change its way of viewing and producing things," says the winemaker. However, Bertrand does not see the point in chasing after certifications: "Certification is not an end in itself. We are primarily engaged in a human approach that involves treating our land as something we will pass on to our children. Even though I have no doubt that the Champagne J. De Telmont vineyard will eventually transition to organic cultivation," he adds.